2

I've started a DIY speaker project based on some components from PureAudioProjects.

So far, I have fabricated modular speaker baffles from Baltic Birch (they attach to a frame, albeit a bit different from that depicted in the photos below).

I hope to finish the Baltic Birch to replicate, as much as possible, the kind of glossy lacquer like finishes in the attached images.

enter image description here

At this point I have Baltic Birch, un-edged.

I have the constraint of living in a New York apartment. While I have space to work and assemble things, I don't have a place to use spay equipment.

I'll need to apply primer and finishes by hand.

How do I get as close to the desired finish as possible? If I sand the plywoods edges, can I get away without edging the baffles?

Any suggestions on sanding process (edges and faces) appreciated. This post, Will painting the edges of plywood hide the layers?, probably answers the edge question, but I'd think Baltic Birch makes a more forgiving edge then typical plywood.

I generally understand the process of priming, sanding, and painting; but specific recommendations for what:

  • grit of sand paper to use at what stage of the process as well as
  • specific primers and paint and application suggestions

much appreciated.

Perhaps a satin finish would prove more forgiving, so I'll happily consider that. Again, any guidance welcome.

re:

Your question has been identified as a possible duplicate of another question. If the answers there do not address your problem, please edit to explain in detail the parts of your question that are unique.

I have a number of constraints affecting the materials with which I have to work and where I have to work (all discussed in the original post) that the suggested answer does not address. I hope to get answers or guidance that help me achieve a result as close as possible to the desired result (see images) with what and where I have to work.

That said, the suggested "possible duplicate" certainly helps (and is really interesting!), it just doesn't fully answer the problem.

Community
  • 1
Jagra
  • 141
  • 4
  • 2
    Answers in this question my help http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/756/how-do-i-achieve-a-piano-black-high-gloss-finish-on-wood – LeeG Nov 17 '16 at 17:24
  • I was posting an Answer but I realised this has been amply covered in previous Answers. Fair warning, the finish you're going for will be extremely challenging to produce on plywood and especially working by hand. As I say a couple of other previous Q&As may be of further help, primarily this one, How do I achieve a “piano black” high gloss finish on wood? – Graphus Nov 17 '16 at 18:59
  • I will answer this later when I have a computer that displays the image. I have built about 3 sets in the last 6 months so I will be able to help I think. If you need a good website for stuff here is a website below. Also GRS speakers if you are on a budget. They are great. https://www.parts-express.com/ – Ljk2000 Nov 17 '16 at 19:33
  • Combining the information in the two previous Questions already linked to just about covers everything you need to know about prepping the wood for paint and then subsequently priming and painting it if you want to paint it manually. The only part that then remains is finding primers & paints that are suitable and available to you locally. But instead of doing this manually it may be worth going with spraycans, although they tend to be an expensive way to paint it might actually work out more cheaply in the end for this project because you won't need to buy any brushes or rollers or solvent. – Graphus Nov 18 '16 at 02:37
  • @Graphus -- Any suggestions on what kind of spray can pain I could use? I would likely have to spray outdoor on a fire escape or on the roof of my building, but maybe that could work. Some concerns about dust. – Jagra Nov 18 '16 at 05:34
  • Something from Rust-Oleum or Krylon, or something similar. See what's available and look 'em up, or Google and then see if available locally. You can spray indoors if you have a room you won't use while the paint dries, the overspray won't be too bad (protect backdrop surfaces with newspaper or cardboard) and after airing the room the next day there won't be any lingering odour. I've had to spray indoors many many times, both primer and paint, due to weather conditions outside (too windy, too wet or too cold... or a combination of all three!) and the smell has never been a big deal. [contd] – Graphus Nov 18 '16 at 09:29
  • About dust, you're right to be concerned about it even spraying indoors, but this is always a worry when finishing and not confined to sprayed finishes although obviously if you were going with the original intent and rubbing down the paint any dust specs that might have settled on the drying paint would be abraded off. – Graphus Nov 18 '16 at 09:30
  • @Graphus -- Hmmm... starting to think about the 2nd bathroom shower stall as a spay booth. It even has an exhaust fan! I'll just have to plan my painting sessions for when I can get my (none too happy with my various projects) family out of the house for a few days ;-) Thx. – Jagra Nov 18 '16 at 13:33
  • Bathrooms can actually make awesome finishing rooms if they're available because they tend to have much less dust than a room with a carpet, soft furnishings etc. If you want to dust the room beforehand to ready it do so well ahead of time to allow airborne particles to settle out. Small particles and fibres can stay suspended for well over one hour, so at least two hours before is good, but better is in the morning for that afternoon, or in the evening for the following morning. Do remember though this is largely unnecessary if you are intending to wet sand and polish. – Graphus Nov 18 '16 at 15:34

0 Answers0