1

The vent register on the celling fell. I don't know how to hold it. It seems that it was fastened to the drywall, and the drywall is not hard as wood.

1

2

isherwood
  • 137,324
  • 8
  • 170
  • 404
Love
  • 281
  • 3
  • 9
  • 18
  • 2
    It seems like they just used screws without drywall anchors. I would poke those with something small like a nail to see if there is any wood above them. If not can probably use drywall anchors to hold the vent up. – crip659 Mar 20 '23 at 16:14

3 Answers3

3

You can use a drywall picture anchor. Given that the holes seem to be overly large, I suggest the screw in kind of drywall anchor. Any home improvement store would carry them.

I like these: enter image description here

UnhandledExcepSean
  • 8,744
  • 5
  • 34
  • 43
  • 4
    These aren't going to work well at all so close to the edge of the opening. It's highly likely that they'll blow out or spin when the screw is driven. – isherwood Mar 20 '23 at 18:19
  • To me, the holes look far enough from the edge to work. – UnhandledExcepSean Mar 20 '23 at 18:30
  • 1
    Smaller plastic drive-in anchors, maybe. These are quite large and chew into the drywall well beyond the hole. I've used all of them many times. – isherwood Mar 20 '23 at 18:32
  • Thanks for the answer. Quite busy these days and sorry about not prompt feedback. I bought the smallest anchors from Walmart. However it can't be inserted into the holes. – Love Apr 11 '23 at 00:00
2

Hollow wall anchors don't do well here, so close to the edge of the opening. You may get a small one to work, but it's a gamble.

I like to create a sheet metal tab. The foam you have may complicate this a bit, but it involves sliding a strip of metal into the opening to which you'll anchor the screw.

  1. Find a bit of sheet metal. It can be thin steel or slightly thicker aluminum. Something like a coffee can could work.

  2. Cut a strip about 1.5" (40mm) wide and 4" (100mm) long.

  3. Fold the strip back at 1/3 of its length to create a tab, and flare the end of the tab out slightly.

  4. Poke the strip, bent end first and with the flare outward, though the gap between the duct and the drywall.

  5. Pull downward to force the tab to slide out over the drywall.

  6. Wrap the protruding strip around the edge of the duct and up into the opening.

  7. Drill a small pilot hole through the screw hole and the new tab to give the screw the ability to grab it.

  8. Gently run the screw in, being careful to not push upward too hard.

The outcome should look something like this:

ELEVATION (SIDE) VIEW

|







  :
  <-- duct






  :
  ........ <-- tab




  :
  : ________________




  :
  :
  




  :
  :
  drywall




  :
  :
  __________________






:..  * screw location

If you find that your strip is too weak to withstand drilling, use heavier metal or double it back on itself, with the initial fold being at the end of the tab.

isherwood
  • 137,324
  • 8
  • 170
  • 404
  • That's not a bad idea, if the side of the duct is flexible enough to slip the 90º angle between it and the drywall. I guess a person could always bevel the back of the drywall some to gain additional maneuvering room. – Huesmann Mar 21 '23 at 12:54
  • 2
    You can also just screw the tab inside the duct to the duct with a short sheet metal screw. – DaveM Mar 21 '23 at 13:49
1
  • See if there is a joist along any of the four sides of the opening. You can use a 1/8 inch drill to check this. If there is, use a 2 inch wood screw to screw the register to the wood. If it's on one of the long sides, drill a hole in the register to suit. That alone will hold the register in place. If the opposite side sags use double-sided foam tape to help it, and fill remaining screw holes with the old screws. They only need to hold themselves in place now.
  • If you don't find a joist, drill holes in two opposite corners of the register, as close to the corner as possible. These will be far enough away from the opening that you can use drywall anchors successfully.
jay613
  • 37,422
  • 2
  • 51
  • 148