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I would like to attach this steel tie down ring to a piece of 3/4" pine.

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My hardware store does not sell pan-head wood screws. Would pan-head sheet metal screws work well?

I am using these hold downs to attach bookshelves to the wall with chains. One set of hold downs will be attached to the top of the case and another set will be attached to a 1x4 that is screwed into the studs of the wall. They will be attached to each other with chains. There are a total of three bookshelves, all next to each other that are 2 feet wide and 8 feet tall. I was going to attach the tie downs to the 1x4 with nuts and bolts, but was a little hesitant to attach them to the bookshelves that way, but will do it if it is safest.

popham
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bwroga
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  • What is your use case for this tie-down ring, as in how much hold down power do you need? – Milwrdfan Jan 18 '24 at 21:41
  • For hold downs, I would prefer bolts and nuts with washers. Screws have lower rip out force – crip659 Jan 18 '24 at 21:41
  • Thanks everyone, I updated my question with my use case – bwroga Jan 18 '24 at 22:19
  • Why? So I am a little bit confused here... Why are you attaching book cases via tie downs to a wall instead of screwing the book cases directly to the wall? – Questor Jan 18 '24 at 22:57
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    If you are just looking to prevent the bookcase from tipping over just install L brackets at the top - like what is supplied with IKEA bookcases. see https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/220920/why-dont-bookshelves-come-with-wall-mounting-screws-included – DJ. Jan 18 '24 at 23:16
  • I agree with @DJ. A bracket won't allow the bookshelf to move, where a chain will, unless you're able to choke the chain up real tight. – Huesmann Jan 19 '24 at 13:45

2 Answers2

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Tee nuts (plus bolts, obviously) are perfect for your 1x4 application. Install the D-rings to the board before attaching the whole assembly to the wall studs. The tee nuts sound good for your shelves too, as long as the tops are strong enough.

tee nut 1 tee nut 2

The pine is pretty soft, so a whack or two with a hammer should embed the flange's thickness into the wood so there's zero gap against the wall. Or you could bust out a Forstner bit if you have one laying around.

Typically a shelving unit is built with each shelf intended to hold a normal amount of load and all of the weight goes through the sides into the floor. Assuming that these shelving units will be suspended off the floor, you're loading the top with the weight of all of the shelves and the case itself, where the top may be designed to hold very little weight. Consider reinforcing the connection between the top piece and the sides.

On the metal screws, metal tapping screws (not the type with the self drilling tip) achieve about 10% better tension strength according to the "Withdrawal Resistance" section on page 8-10 from Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook. Given the mechanics of shear loading, metal tapping screws should get similar strength to wood screws in shear. Anchoring into 3/4" pine, though, isn't going to provide much strength.

popham
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Use standard countersunk/flat-head wood screws
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zoro.com

along with countersunk washers
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zoro.com

Pre-drill a hole a little smaller than the screw in your 1x4 to prevent splitting and then insert wood screw with countersunk washer.
The washer is raised & profiled to fit the head of the screw, so the end result is very similar to having used a pan-head screw, except that it's flat on top instead of domed.

brhans
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  • A #10 wood screw in 3/4" Pine might barely reach 50# before pulling out. I might hang a potted plant from a D-ring anchor fastened with wood screws. Even then I would be a little uncomfortable depending on the pot size. – popham Jan 19 '24 at 17:26