I am renting a home that had to have the gas water heater replaced. The landlord had someone install the new one and the connections are questionable. My plumber informed me that using CPVC with SharkBite connectors directly out of the tank instead of soldering copper lines in was not only lazy but not to code, also the expansion tank was removed and never reinstalled. Any help confirming this job was done incorrect and incomplete would be very much appreciated
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isherwood
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Chris Whittington
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2I read in another forum that if your state adapted code ASTM D-2846-69T it is not permitted to use CPVC or other plastics directly off the tank, that a metal line must stretch at least 18 inches from the tank, it appears Virginia has but I don't see it specifically worded anywhere in the code book – Chris Whittington Nov 21 '16 at 05:01
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1If there's a pressure reducing or check valve on the water main (almost certainly, unless it's a really old home that's never been updated), the expansion tank MUST be installed. If it's not, the pressure in the system can easily be raised enough to damage fixtures. It's going to be quite hot at the exhaust, so I wouldn't think SharkBite and/or CPVC would be appropriate there. However, I'm not well versed enough in plumbing code, to speak to whether or not it's a violation. – Tester101 Nov 21 '16 at 11:29
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1@Tester101, have you ever seen the styrofoam cup over the Bunsen burner trick? The cup won't melt if there's water in it. Here, the pipes won't be damaged if there's water in them (which there should always be if it's heating or you have other problems). – isherwood May 16 '23 at 13:06
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Virginia code regarding materials for water heater hookups doesn't get too specific but does to say to make sure you're in accordance with the water heater's manual.
I'm not sure what model you have but the instructions for a current Whirlpool electric water say CPVC is fine (see page 6, item 3). It also recommends compression fittings if you don't want to solder, but doesn't specifically prohibit Sharkbites.
Also the code is OK with CPVC. I took a look for something specifit to within 'X' distance of a water heater and didn't see anything. Here's the link for the code if you'd like to take a look yourself.
Expansions tanks are required if you have a Pressure reducing value (PRV) or backflow preventer. If you do not then there's no need for an expansion tank.
Local codes may superceed state codes, so check what your county & town say. If you call the inspector's office and set up a time to call and speak with an inspector, they should be happy to answer your questions. And if this was installed without a permit they'll be interested to hear about that as well probably. (And if it was installed with a permit it should have been inspected, which would mean it's fine).
Sean
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Well going further back into the statement just made by the individual answering the question at the beginning of this, your reply was regarding a electric water heater in the question was about a gas water heater electric water heaters do not require expansion tanks at all in any state/or UPC book there is no need for a expansion tank on an electric water heater due to if the thermostat fails it will blow the coils/heating elements then at that point there's no emergency on over expansion due to continuous heating as a gas or LP water heater would do if all three safety backups failed it's thermostat gas valve relief valve !
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4Wrong -- you'll need an expansion tank on an electric water heater still if you have a closed water supply system (PRV or backflow preventer) or else the T&P on the heater will spit water due to excessive pressure buildup. (Think about it -- as volume goes up, pressure has to go up proportionally, so something has to give, and it's the T&P as that's the designed "weak link", or at least you hope it's the T&P and not say a dodgy fitting popping off and springing a leak!) – ThreePhaseEel May 16 '23 at 01:10