How do I fix rust spots on my table saw table?

Question

I got a table saw for Christmas because I have the best wife ever!!

I immediately got it set up in the garage and made a few test cuts, then headed back inside to hibernate for the rest of the winter. Like a nimrod, I did not immediately wax the surface, so now it's got a few rust spots on it, including some lines from where the fence had been parked.

My plan is to gently scrub the rusted areas with some 0000 steel wool, then rub in a good automotive paste wax once it's cleaned up.

Is there anything else I can/should do to remove the rust?

Is there something better (more highly recommended) than an automotive paste wax for future protection?

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I know you're not supposed to provide answers as updates to the question, but since I closed this as a dupe...

My initial WD-40™ and steel wool didn't seem to do anything but make the table oily, so I went out in search of some supplies. After have a number of people look at me as though I was speaking Greek, I finally found some Naval Jelly and a tin of furniture wax.

I spot treated with the naval jelly and it worked great, but left the surface looking horrible. After reviewing the links in the dupe target, plus the "this one" in Graphus' comment, I jellied the whole surface. I worked 1 section at a time and let it soak for about 10 minutes, wiped it off, then rinsed it off with a damp sponge. I did use masking tape to mask off the wings (painted, pressed steel) and the rails (front and rear), just to be on the safe side.

I broke out the RO sander and a 220 grit disk. Moving constantly, I sanded each section smooth. It looks factory fresh!

I got a bit impatient and didn't let the last section (as defined by the miter slots) sit for a full 10 minutes, and it shows - it's just not quite as evenly colored as the rest, but it's still just fine.

I applied the wax (I couldn't find Johnson's, so I used Minwax) with a shop rag. I buffed it in by tossing the rag on the table top and putting the RO on top of that. (I need to buy a buffer.) I think this 1-lb can of wax will last me a few lifetimes.

After:

^{You can still see some of the marks from the naval jelly on this side. :(}

Answer 1

I typically use Scotch Brite pads to knock off surface rust from cast iron surfaces, together with some light cleaner (or being lazy, WD-40). Very fine steel wool will work as well, and even fine grit sandpaper would serve in a pinch.

As for waxing, I stick to furniture wax, under the assumption that anything one puts on the table saw will be picked up by the wood being worked, and it would be better to use things that are meant for wood (and won't interfere with gluing and finishing).

Answer 2

My preference for removing rust like this is to sand using rubber abrasive blocks, Garryflex. Klingspor make a similar product, Sandflex. They are like rust erasers!

I start by local sanding of rust spots using medium grit and when almost all is gone I switch to long strokes over entire area. I usually finish using a fine block working in the same direction. I have lost my cardboard sleeves but if I recall they recommended lubricating using a light oil, but you can use water with detergent added and I find this more effective.

Your saw table looks quite large, although the rust is very minor maybe you would prefer to use your randomorbit sander?

To protect the iron after sanding I used automotive wax before, but I understand that you must ensure it contains no silicon when used on woodworking equipment.

Although Ballistol is very popular here for rust prevention now I use paste wax based on comparisons found on the internet because it is cheaper and I use it on my wood projects anyway. I was very doubtful but Wd-40 does very well in these comparisons!