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I'm preparing to build some doors for my workshop and I'm really struggling to get help with an issue I'm having. I'm going for a framed ledge and brace design and I've got my components, however, a couple of the 4x2 pieces which will make the frame are bowed. The worst one, at its most bent, is about 8mm off a flat surface. I've got a picture if it helps.

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I've read about bending methods with mixed reviews and I think a major variable for success is how much bending is required, people mention minor and severe bowing but give no indication of what is severe. So I wanted to ask is 8mm a big bend? Also, is there a way to straighten this and have it stay straight given that it's a workshop door that will be exposed to the elements, or do I need to plane it flat? Thanks in advance

gnicko
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Sukhy
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  • Hi, welcome to Woodworking. As you're a Stack Overflow user, did you try a search before asking? It is clear that you did some prior research before posting the Question, but we have more than one prior Q&A which covers warped wood and the various means one might try to unwarp it, along with the realistic picture that it may not stay that way. – Graphus Dec 29 '21 at 12:27
  • "people mention minor and severe bowing but give no indication of what is severe." I understand your frustration with this but part of it is that people will have different standards for what is major or minor. And the type of wood, and the size of the pieces, are also directly relevant to how you'd classify it — an 8mm bow in a board of a given length is much worse than an 8mm bow in a board twice as long, even though both might be accurately referred to as "an 8mm bow" if you get what I mean. – Graphus Dec 29 '21 at 12:31
  • Hi thanks for your reply. Yeah I had searched and found posts similar to the one you sent, but I guess I was looking for an answer to the minor/severe question that's why I was hoping someone could tell me if my specific case was fixable without losing any thickness. I feel like it's not though so I'll try some of the suggestions in your link. Thanks – Sukhy Dec 29 '21 at 17:05
  • If it's any help, one of the very loose rules of thumb that some people use when it comes to bowed or twisted stock is only if the board can be pushed flat using finger pressure will they use it. This sort of makes sense, and I have used it myself, but don't rely on it in all situations — a single warped board forced flat during assembly can sometimes exert enough pressure to slightly distort the thing it becomes a part of once clamps are removed, or a little later. I've had this happen with a drawer, but luckily it was for a workshop project where a slightly wonky drawer wasn't a dealbreaker. – Graphus Dec 30 '21 at 18:33
  • As I imagine you know, the norm is to make your stock flat during processing. So any cup, twist, bow or crook that the rough wood does have is removed as part of the milling process, taking the wood to 'four square'. So "or do I need to plane it flat?" yes is the normal answer and is generally what you should do, as long as you don't lose too much thickness when you do it. If this would result in the piece becoming too thin then buying another board may actually be the right call.# – Graphus Dec 30 '21 at 18:41
  • I think the reason I'm a bit nervous about this is because everything I've built up to now has been fixed on all sides. Things like boxes where, as you mentioned, one slightly crooked piece can be corrected during assembly and the rest of the structure can keep it straight. I've never made doors before but I know they're a different story and the ones I'm replacing are bowed, so I wanna make sure these new ones last – Sukhy Jan 01 '22 at 09:19
  • Most builds I've done, I've tried to get wood in the dimensions I need, or I have sometimes adjusted my measurements to accommodate the wood I have already. I've dimensioned a few times but I generally avoid it as I currently only have hand tools for that purpose. So with this door build, again I bought the wood in the dimensions I need and I was hoping to just cut down the length. But I've tried bending with no success, so I'm going to plane it and see what I'm left with. If its too thin, I'll make sure the next piece is straight! Thanks for your help – Sukhy Jan 01 '22 at 09:27
  • You're very welcome, glad to try to help. "If its too thin, I'll make sure the next piece is straight!" Yeah, careful material selection is one of those things doesn't get enough emphasis early on I feel (surprisingly really given how important it can be). Although it is normal to saw/joint/plane to square and flat when buying rough stock obviously with dimensioned timber you want to try to be as selective as practical for straight and true stuff.... and even, if necessary, check multiple vendors (or visit a single source on more than one occasion) to accrue a good stock of suitable wood. – Graphus Jan 01 '22 at 17:46
  • Maybe it's just me, but I don't see any obvious bowing in any of the wood in that stack. – FreeMan Jan 05 '22 at 17:02
  • Maybe it's not that noticeable but if you look closely there's a gap between the pieces. It's a bit easier to see on the bottom piece. It's for a door so I think even that little bit of bowing could be a major problem – Sukhy Jan 08 '22 at 14:21

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