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I'm making a end-table topper out of 1 3/8" butcher block for over the top of a subwoofer. I posted a question about how to route out the center of a board. It was determined that although it is possible to route out the interior of the massive board, attaching an edge board would be the path of least resistance to create the end table top.

Given the scope of my prior question, I decided to open a new one.

Which is the standard practice of attaching the edge board? Which might be the most cohesive with butcher block? Would glue or nails or both be better? If nails and/or glue, what kinds?

edge board attachment

tjcinnamon
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  • Are you specifically looking for a butcher block look in the end? Will this be stained or painted at all?

    There are a lot of options, and it really boils down to preference.

     – Jacob Edmond Nov 16 '16 at 20:21
  • yeah, I'll be staining it a walnut color. I'm going to use this lumber: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/hardwood-lumber-boards/mastercraft-reg-1-3-8-x-24-red-oak-benchtop/p-1444445115814-c-13115.htm?tid=2389969650165297622 – tjcinnamon Nov 16 '16 at 20:22
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    Note that as soon as you connect the end boards whose grain is perpendicular to your top you must address differential wood movement and allow for different movement rates. Check out this question for a discussion: http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/908/what-general-considerations-do-i-need-to-take-into-account-for-wood-movement/1725#1725 – Ashlar Nov 16 '16 at 21:58
  • Ashlar is correct, especially as the piece gets larger. At a small scale I would not be too concerned in this case. It would help to know the size of this top. There are other ways of attaching an apron that do allow for wood movement if it comes to that. – Jacob Edmond Nov 17 '16 at 11:31

1 Answers1

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I would create an apron frame attached to the bottom of the butcher block. This way you can maintain the solid butcher block look, and it will greatly simplify the construction.

Offsetting the apron frame prevents the difficulty of having to line up with the top, as well as opening up the possibility of using a different material altogether.

If you are able to, mitering the corners will provide the best look overall. From here you could simply glue and nail these pieces to the top. enter image description here

Jacob Edmond
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    Any wood glue will do, but Titebond is generally the best. For indoor use, Titebond I is perfect. – Jacob Edmond Nov 16 '16 at 21:08
  • If you have a drill, and would prefer to use screws, you could counter sink and screw the pieces on as well. Being on the underside of the piece, it is up to you if you would want to cover the screws with filler or not. – Jacob Edmond Nov 16 '16 at 21:10
  • If you went with a taller apron piece, you could potentially pocket screw from the backside as well. – Jacob Edmond Nov 16 '16 at 21:10
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    WOW! The amount of clever tricks in woodworking and carpentry continues to amaze! – tjcinnamon Nov 16 '16 at 21:20
  • any suggestions for what type of wood to use for the apron? – tjcinnamon Nov 16 '16 at 22:17
  • I agree with Jacob Edmond. Use Titebond glue. I put that stuff to the test and the results are great. I recommended Type 2 but that is up to you. Tip: DO NOT over clamp. That can squeeze all the glue out leaving a rather weak glue joint. But not to loose... cause' that does not work either. – Ljk2000 Nov 17 '16 at 03:55
  • @tjcinnamon There are many more tricks out there my friend, trust me. And welcome to the club :) – Ljk2000 Nov 17 '16 at 03:56
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    @Ljk2000 I know your desire is to help but you need to learn about a subject before you confidently make statements about it dude. 1) It's practically impossible to over clamp in the home woodshop. 2) It is only by clamping hard that you get the best glue joints. So there's essentially no reason for us to warn about it, in practice it almost cannot happen. Also, bonus info in case you didn't know, there's no strength advantage to Titebond II over Titebond I. – Graphus Nov 17 '16 at 11:12
  • @Graphus I think that was a little harsh. There is some validity to not overtightening clamps, while realizing that this may mean different things to different people. I was taught by some very experienced woodworkers how not to overtighten my clamps, as it really shouldn't take a lot of pressure to let the glue do its job. Working in a production shop, we had many young guys come in there cranking their clamps as tight as they could, which is overkill, and will squeeze more glue out than is necessary. There were times, more often when using West System epoxy, that the joint failed. – Jacob Edmond Nov 17 '16 at 11:38
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    @JacobEdmond "I was taught by some very experienced woodworkers how not to overtighten my clamps," Sorry but they were wrong too, or at least they hadn't updated their advice for the era of modern glues. This is still extremely common advice. But it is still wrong. It is outdated, coming from the days of hide glue, which does not need high clamp pressures to provide good bond strength (both because of its extraordinary strength and because it shrinks as it dries). But modern glues don't work that way. This will run too long if I go into further detail so I'll have to leave it at that. – Graphus Nov 17 '16 at 12:28
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    @Graphus My apologies but I was told that I am not supposed to over tighten the joint. But if it makes no difference then I will note that. And I said titebond II because I think it will last longer for the guy, not saying type I will not last. – Ljk2000 Nov 17 '16 at 12:49
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    @JacobEdmond thank you. I am only 16 and want to help and learn as much as I can. That can be why I may not make sence, witch also, sorry to all. – Ljk2000 Nov 17 '16 at 12:49
  • I look forward to any evidence to support those claims Graphus, as I have yet to encounter anything to support that. Either way, your approach was not productive to this discussion, or to furthering his knowledge on the subject. The whole reason this forum exists is to teach and learn. – Jacob Edmond Nov 17 '16 at 12:58
  • I thought of it and I am sticking to what I had said. Yes you need to clamp fairly hard but not to hard where the glue is squeezed out. And with so little left I do not see how that can be a good joint. And again I would use type 2. Yes it is indoor but I think it is easy to play it safe. And what if it does get wet, could fall apart? – Ljk2000 Nov 17 '16 at 13:36
  • any suggestions on wood types that would work well for the apron frame? I'm thinking of using 1x2 – tjcinnamon Nov 17 '16 at 15:27
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    If you want it to match the top, you should be able to pick up red oak 1x2 from your local home store. If you want to paint it, I would prefer poplar, but there are cheaper options like pine, or aspen as well. – Jacob Edmond Nov 17 '16 at 15:32
  • Red oak sounds good. Gonna stain both of them walnut anyway – tjcinnamon Nov 17 '16 at 16:06
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    @JacobEdmond I was not trying to be dismissive & don't expect you to take my word for it but we're not supposed to engage in extended debates in the Comments on SE. I've posted a few Answers that relate to bond strength and clamp pressure if you want to use the search to locate them. Citations in at least 1 or 2 I'm sure, primarily to info from the FPL which can be downloaded from a few places including the US Department of Agriculture's own site, if you can find it. This was first documented in the 1920s I think so hardly recent info which is why it's so amazing it's still so widely believed! – Graphus Nov 17 '16 at 18:49